Saturday, July 2, 2011

So Here's The Latest....


Tuesday our group spilt up and visited a local 9-12 girls boarding school and the United States International University. Through heavy and death defying traffic, we had an amazing meeting with university officials on a college campus that was global in the truest sense. This university attracts a student population that, year in and year out, has changing demographics. One year, the numerical majority is East African and the next it's Asian.   
This university was almost an urban anomaly. It was clean, energetic, with modern facilities, spacious and attractive. 

Later that afternoon, we all reconnected for our trip out to Olerai Farm. This is a massive piece of land that sits adjacent to the Masai Mara where we will later do our game drive. It's at this point that we connected with our game drive support who will not only drive us but also prepare our meals and build our tent camp. Peter, the driver, told us we would be at the farm in 3-4 hours. Half way through the drive we came upon the Great Rift Valley. It was a sight of majesty that I had never seen before. I think it was because of it's size. The thing runs from Israel to Mozambique. We stood a couple of thousand feet able to valley below and took in the history of the Great Rift Valley as well as pin-pointed where we were headed.

We trekked through village after village waving at tribe after tribe as they sold their wares, herded their livestock, slept under bushes, toted goods on their heads and looked at us. You can't help but wonder what they think of Westerners (or others) who traipse into their land to observe them! I admit, I feel somewhat awkward as not only an outsider but also as a gawker.

It's hard to explain the details of what you see when you're out in the rural communities of Kenya. More than that, it's hard not to use Western descriptors or non-Kenyan value statements. I don't want to be disrespectful to the native people by any means but when there is no other frame by which to capture or process the vision and thought, it's terribly hard. So, as I write on, know that I have made every attempt to suspend judgment and explain things through more of a lens of helping the reader to visualize for themselves.

We arrived at our farm with sore backsides and dusty everything else! It was 5 hours in a safari Range Rover that seated 8...uncomfortably! Once at the farm, it was another 20 minutes to get to our site which is beautifully called "House in the Wild." House in the Wild is an amazingly intimate set of 4 Masai hut structures that are each decorated like a collision between Architectural Digest, Pottery Barn and National Geographic. I slept in a one bedroom, one bath private hut that sat 10 feet from the banks of the Mara river. Not only could I hear the flowing river below, I could also hear the hippos moving around in the water. If the hut itself wasn't enough, the bathroom in the hut had no permanent wall and the carved concrete tub/shower was completely exposed to the hippos in the river. Words could not do the place justice but just know that I found it to be serene, romantic and exactly what you would envision from a movie-esque night spent on the banks of a river in Africa. 

And Yet Another Take....


Kenya Observations....The next items are a few thoughts that aren't bloggable but worth passing on. 

* It' s wild to see Kenyans selling coal by the bucket
* You don't know irony until you go 5 hours into the Masai Mara to immerse yourself into a Masai village where the warriors are in full tribal gear from head to their Nike covered feet
* There are three times more Kenyans than its infrastructure can support
* Everybody in Kenya has a way to survive -- from driving unauthorized taxis to selling grilled corn on the side of the road
* Kenyans in the slums (and ghettos) of Kibera have no government services but they do have access to mobile banking
* Kenyan labor is so cheap (and non-unionized) that they are trenching fiberoptic internet cable from Kenya to Uganda...BY HAND 
* The expanse of Kenya is such that most schools are boarding because children have to travel so far to get from home to school
* Security is everywhere, from uniformed government to private firms
* It's true, animals in the wild do look different than animals in the zoo 
* Sleeping in bug nets is not romantic


While at the farm, we visited two schools. One was an elementary school and one high school. Both were supported by the Olerai Farm founders. We toured the schools and at each one, we were greeted by children genuinely happy to see us. When arriving at the first, we had no idea what to expect. The schools were less than modest by Western standards but the buildings were newly constructed with functional outdoor toilets. The highlight was a Masai song and dance done by the students. It was absolutely soul stirring.

When arriving at the second, there were about a hundred kids playing soccer who began to drop their game and run alongside our car singing WELCOME, WELCOME, WELOME! They surrounded the car once we stopped and drenched us with smiles, handshakes and the traditional leaning forward of their head so that we could touch or pat them on top. They loved it! They loved being greeted and visited and we loved being there as well. They as well sent us forward with a song and dance but this time it was with the students in full Masai gear. 

Mount Leyloni

And Another Take....


Monday we made our way into Nairobi to meet with the executive director of a school and foundation started in Nairobi's infamous Kibera slum. Of course, traffic in Kenya is similar to other international cosmopolitan cities...HELLISH and scary. I counted at least 12 times that we almost ran into something in the 45 minute drive to Kibera. For those of you doing the math, that's one evert 3.5 seconds.

Kibera is a large swatch of land unrecognized by the Kenyan government. It was inhabited by squatters many years ago who refused to leave and subsequently have created their own city within a city. There is high crime and a dense population. What's fascinating about the Kibera slum is the hierarchical structure amongst people who reside in the same abject poverty. There is a hill in Kibera that is designated the ghetto while the base of the hill is called the slum. The ghetto is diffferentiated because of their official access to electricity. Kibera also has the distinctive structure where your family's status is equated with how many people share a household toilet. In Kibera slum, they actually charge people outside of the family for use of the toilet.

We went on to tour the school and the Children of Kibera foundation during that morning and then in the afternoon made our way to St. George's School for Girls. This is a school with a very British history and ethos. It's a prestigious boarding school with over 900 girls. They were very formal but remarkably pleased to host us. We visited classes and spent time talking shop with the school administration.

The day was capped off by dinner in Nairobi. We were joined by a school alum who is doing Peace Corp work in a small village north of Kenya. We  had a rowdy and lengthy dinner where we passed around platters of grilled goat (the cut of goat chosen by our group) local spinach, corn meal paste and marinated chicken all eaten by hand and finished with the local beverage.


Another Take....


As the first full day progressed, we made our way to the Katangala Glass Factory. It's a collection of local artisans all huddled into an village. Of course, the only way to get to the glass factory is to traverse a metal suspension bridge that hangs hundreds of feet over a gorge. I gotta tell ya', it was suh-weet. In either direction, you could see for miles with a mountain range on your right and the carved out earth on your left. 

As we got into the factory, we were shown around by a local artist who specialized in metals. He was a great host and extremely insightful about the artists' experience in the area. We proceeded to "shop" around bead huts, painter's huts. Our favorite spot however was the glass blowing. The glass blowers were amazing. All self-taught and extremely talented. To watch the ease of their craftsmanship and the pedestrian glass blowing tools that they used was jaw dropping.

The tour was cut short because of rain. The entire trip has been overcast with periodic hits of warm equatorial sun. We made our way back to the lodge through parts of the preserve and came upon a pack of monkeys and a small herd of antelope. We of course stopped and starred like school children at the zoo, but we all realized the awesomeness of seeing these animals in the wild, unencumbered by the human presence.

Our return to the lodge came with continued curriculum work along with dinner.  Dinner continued to be exotic yet safe for experimentation.



Monday, June 27, 2011

Andre's Update


June 24th.
Bound for Africa, the 5 of us arrived at Dulles only to find a ridiculously long line for international check-in and security. The wait was good in that we could all catch up and chat about the upcoming trip as well as other things unrelated to work.

Lynetta was the first to arrive followed by me and Martin. Louise came next followed by Kerin who was a good 60 people behind us in line. Louise, in her priceless Louise fashion, made her way right up with up! HILARIOUS!

We made our way to the gate just as they were preparing to board. And then, in a scene that I want for myself, I noticed that the crowd parted and a half dozen suited guys were making their way through with a bearded man following behind. It was Ben Bernanke the Chairman of the Federal Reserve.

We settled in for the 7 hour flight to Zurich. I was separated from the group as they put me in an EXIT row. The rest of the gang was together a few rows back. After a movie I went back and loitered in the aisle and we chatted, had a 35,000 foot toast and chuckled about the less than gracious German flight attendant that almost assaulted me when she figured out that I was talking about her. Not my best moment!

Zurich was beautiful to fly into. It looked like one continuous golf course. The mountains were lush and the overall aesthetic was clean and attractive. Swiss Air was a great way to travel even though they refused my flirty and humorous request for an upgrade to first class.

We landed in Nairobi at about 6:30 local time, made our way to the Visa line and met our trip leader David. The airport was a madhouse! They are doing construction on the airport and we just happened to be there at rush hour and heavy flight arrivals. Nonetheless, we met up with David, our driver Roge, and another instructor from World Leadership School, Chris, who was supposed to be leading another group but was delayed.

As we made our way from the busy Nairobi airport, we saw a bustling area. Lots of traffic, lots of development and lots of people going here and there. As well, we quickly saw cultural elements in the driving! Paved roads with signs gave way to dirt roads with "I'm bigger than you and I'm merging whether you like it or not" as the rule of the road. Some of us napped while in the traffic, others took pictures but we all got a healthy dose of the fumes that came from being within arms length of a 25 passenger bus filled with 45 people!

From the masses of people we finally emerged at the Masai Lodge 3 hours (15 miles) later. The Lodge sits against a National Park that buts right up against the airport and the fringes of Nairobi. Even at night, it was wild to see this dark expanse of natural and untouched land juxtaposed against the bright lights of urban sprawl. Dirt kilometer after dirt kilometer came and went until the Lodge emerged on our left. We passed through the guarded checkpoint and proceeded to the entrance.

We were greeted by a very friendly staff. They offered us juice upon arrival and proceeded to take us to the table that they had prepared for us for our arrival dinner. Now, remember, this is 9:30pm local time and so that's 5:30am EST.

We sat down and had a round of Tuskers beer. It's a local beer and is fantastic. After that we shared vegetable salad with the table, took some pictures and readied ourselves for some traditional Kenyan fare. I had lamb, a couple of people joined me in that. A couple of folks had the fish, we had one cheeseburger and one order of goat! Not too bad for day one!

After dinner, we were escorted to our rooms. I should say our huts. The accommodations were individual, modernized Masai style huts. They were great! Each has a deck which overlooks a gorge where there were gentle rapids flowing below that provided the ambient white noise to sleep by.

For me, the night came and went pretty quick. I slept well but was up early. I took advantage of the still of the Lodge to walk around shortly after the sun came up. I walked down a bit towards the gorge, took a look at the pool, and just generally took in the surroundings. I then walked towards the front of the property where I saw some movement in the distance. I walked closer but lost the movement. I kept going though bound and determined to catch my first glipse of the wildlife that surrounds the property and then there they were...about 20 baboons playing aorund on a rock cliff about 200 yards away.

Sunday, June 26, 2011

Our First Full Day!

We met up with David Maher & Christopher Lindstrom of World Leadership School and began our curriculum discussions and cultural exploration!  Here's our film, enjoy!

Saturday, June 25, 2011

The group is in Kenya!

Hello everyone. I just spoke with the WLS instructor David Maher. The group arrived this evening in Kenya and everyone is happy and healthy. They are enjoying dinner before heading to bed. The group will start blogging tomorrow. Please let me know if you have any questions 303.679.3412.

Erin Lasky
Program Director
World Leadership School